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  67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
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   Author  Topic: 67 Needs New Rear Sprockets  (Read 4179 times)
Doo640ER
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Re:67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
« Reply #20 on: December 13, 2011, 05:54:56 AM »
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Quote from: 73elan250 on December 12, 2011, 04:20:06 PM   

does anyone know what year they switched over to rivets?


69 was the last year for the screws and nylock nuts.   
« Last Edit: December 13, 2011, 08:54:03 AM by Doo640ER » Report to moderator Logged

67 Olympique 250
70 TNT 292 (slides)
70 Olympique 12/3
70 Ski Boose MK I
72 Nordic 640ER (2)
Chrystler Sno Runner (2)
81 Citation 4500e
02 Legend GS 600
2011 GSX LE 600 E-tec
Bones
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Re:67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
« Reply #21 on: December 13, 2011, 08:04:01 AM »
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Quote from: Doo640ER on December 12, 2011, 10:43:44 AM   

Only one reason I used pan head screws.  That's what was original to the sled. 

OK, good point......I just couldn`t figure why any one would use em when you could use hex head etc.
Bones
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hermit
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Re:67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
« Reply #22 on: December 13, 2011, 09:19:14 AM »
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My '69 had all panheads, bogies and sprockets. I was lucky none were rusted. But taking them all off by hand was "fun". My 65 has phillips heads which are easier to handle than flatheads.
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'65 Olympique
75 Elan
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Re:67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
« Reply #23 on: December 13, 2011, 09:57:57 AM »
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Both my 67s, had all hex, boggy wheels were all bombi originals. So no aftermarket. You would think that was factory.
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1967 Alpine 299
EricR
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Re:67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
« Reply #24 on: December 13, 2011, 11:13:19 AM »
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Another thing was they used what they got at a good price in bulk from a supplier. 

I watch that Bombi video that shows the assembly of '67's, and how they used no primer what so ever, the chassis came through hung like a side of beef and got hosed down with alkyd enamel (think Rustoleum type) then I assume run through an oven of sorts to speed the drying process so they could go on to further assembly.

You see the way a guy just dumps a single engine down on top of the tunnel, then gets a new grip and drops it on the mounting studs? No concern for the scratches that likely were hidden by the seat later!

I'm putting my '70 together and laying towels down before I lay wrenches on the tunnel..

Often with these old machines the discussion of what is the correct color match comes up.  With fiberglass parts, the particular batch of gel coat used on a given day may have varied from what they used a week earlier.

Most "restored" machines to me are assembled with more detail than they likely came from the factory.
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75 Elan
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Re:67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
« Reply #25 on: December 13, 2011, 11:54:23 AM »
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wow this is straying form to OP
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1976 Elan  292E
1967 Alpine 299
EricR
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Re:67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
« Reply #26 on: December 13, 2011, 04:13:17 PM »
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Ddub started it............

Sorry if I dragged this off track. I re used the straight slot pan heads on my '69, they were not rusty and it was one less thing I had to buy.
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1970TNT
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Re:67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
« Reply #27 on: December 13, 2011, 04:41:40 PM »
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1970 SLEDS HAD RIVETS >:(
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ironjoe
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Re:67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
« Reply #28 on: December 26, 2011, 09:34:27 PM »
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Just weighing in with my opinion, I tried the 4103 black rubber sprockets on the back of my 72 tnt but I could not get the track to stop jumping out. I have the white, hard 4102 sprockets on the front and rear now and no problems.
I believe the rubber ones are correct but after 40 years or so the tracks are a bit less supple.
I used slot pan heads too, only because they were cheap.
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cdem72
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Re:67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
« Reply #29 on: April 5, 2012, 09:04:49 AM »
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I believe the OEM Bombardier ones are obsolete as I was told I got the last 3 pair a couple of years ago; but they may have continued manufacturing them because of the number of sleds that use them, I don't know for sure.
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'62 tincab; '69 399 T'NT; '70 292, 340 bliz, 340 T'NT; '71 246, 291 bliz, 440, 640, 775 T'NT; '72 293, 340, 440 bliz; '73 345 bliz, '74 440 T'NT, '75 245 rv
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Re:67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
« Reply #30 on: August 12, 2012, 01:55:36 PM »
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Hello
I'll have 4 early original types done by late fall, SK20,570-0101 in rubber, and 414-0001, 414-0327 in UHMW material.

Greg Spaulding
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Rockalicious
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Re:67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
« Reply #31 on: November 6, 2013, 04:44:47 PM »
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Doo you guys have any advice on how to remove the sprockets? My repair manual shows and explains to use two flat head screwdrivers to pry the old sprockets out. I tried and it looks like I would be bending the flanges on either side. The sprockets are in there pretty deep and after 40 years I am not too sure on how pliable they are.

Also, my '70 oly 12/3 came with pan heads.
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'70 olympique 12/3
'74 wife
'75 elan 300ss (sold)
'76 elan 250e
'86 Yamaha Bravo 250
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Re:67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
« Reply #32 on: November 6, 2013, 08:52:27 PM »
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Drill the rivets or unbolt/break the rusted bolts when doing so and slide the flanges off. Good news on Greg Spaulding's making new sprockets.
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Re:67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
« Reply #33 on: November 7, 2013, 09:05:18 AM »
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Rockalicious, is your issue that the outer steel flanges won't move? The inner steel flanges are tack welded to the shaft, the outers are supposed to float, but they get rusted on. I had to nearly destroy some to get them off before.  Lots of penetrating lube and torch heat were needed, then I had to straighten my flanges as they got pretty mangled.

I'd have just gotten a better donor shaft but didn't have the time.
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Re:67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
« Reply #34 on: November 7, 2013, 03:45:44 PM »
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Thanks by's. I couldn't see prying them off working according to the manual so I thought about them floating around but after some whacking I wasn't so sure. They are rusted on pretty good so I'll heat them up. Makes sense that the inner is fixed.
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'69 Ski Boose MKII
'70 olympique 12/3
'74 wife
'75 elan 300ss (sold)
'76 elan 250e
'86 Yamaha Bravo 250
Joe Olympique
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Re:67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
« Reply #35 on: November 7, 2013, 05:21:41 PM »
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You can also try a beefy pin punch set sideways into a bolt hole with a moderate hammer hit, this might break the flange loose, careful not to mangle the hole though. Also, firmly in the vice, you can give the sprocket itself a good whack, straight down, that might get things spinning freely.
I had one axle where that approach broke of a nice big chunk of old sprocket. It was then a pretty easy task to dig the rest of the sprocket out allowing me to work the stuck flange from both sides
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64: Alpine. 66 Olympique. 67 Alpine. 70: 12/3, 335. 71: 292, 775, No-dick 399, Valmont, Auto-ski Torrino 440.  72: 340, 440, 775, No-dick 440. 73: elan 250T.  75 Racoon Elan. 78 Olympique 340. 83 Yamaha Bravo
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Re:67 Needs New Rear Sprockets
« Reply #36 on: November 7, 2013, 06:44:05 PM »
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Quote from: Joe Olympique on November  7, 2013, 05:21:41 PM   

You can also try a beefy pin punch set sideways into a bolt hole with a moderate hammer hit, this might break the flange loose, careful not to mangle the hole though. Also, firmly in the vice, you can give the sprocket itself a good whack, straight down, that might get things spinning freely.
I had one axle where that approach broke of a nice big chunk of old sprocket. It was then a pretty easy task to dig the rest of the sprocket out allowing me to work the stuck flange from both sides



Thanks. Tried those moves tonight. Got one of the buggers loose and off just when I was loosing faith and beginning to think that I have the only completely welded axle! I managed to dig out the sprocket and then use a bearing puller on it. The other one however is putting up a good fight.. there is always one that doesn't want to come easy eh  >:(
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'69 Ski Boose MKII
'70 olympique 12/3
'74 wife
'75 elan 300ss (sold)
'76 elan 250e
'86 Yamaha Bravo 250
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